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e_moon60

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Sockin' It to Myself [Feb. 17th, 2012|12:28 am]
e_moon60
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[Current Mood |accomplished]

I decided to start SockTwo  so that I could do the two in tandem, and thus practice (and maybe really learn) all the parts of a sock twice in a row, really close together.   By the time the new yarn and needles arrived this week, SockTwo's ribbed cuff was between 2.5 and 3 inches and the messy bits had "healthy" ribbing above and below.  Kind of tree-like, the way a tree's bark will show where an old injury was, but around it the bark has the normal pattern. 

In the meantime, before starting SockTwo, I moved SockOne from three base needles to four and drove myself crazy for a few rounds trying to figure out how to hold the extra needles with knitting with the fifth.   Two days later, I had it, and yes--like the 5-needle version better.  However...this means my "free" needle is needed for both projects (OK, since I really can't knit on both simultaneously)  as I have one four-needle set and one five-needle set (both US size 5.)  




SockTwo is on the left, SockOne on the right, as of the last row knit.  The blue needles were inherited from my mother--they're aluminum.  The steely looking ones are steel.   The yarn is 100% wool, worsted-weight.  Both socks were cast on with the long-tail cast-on, on larger needles than they would be worked, and both then had one row of knit stitches into the cast-on row before starting the 2x2 ribbing.   When SockTwo catches up with SockOne I'll alternate rows of ribbing until the cuff's the length I want, do one heel flap then the other, then turn the heels one after the other, and so on.   The goal is no more than a one day separation between finishing one and the other. 
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Comments:
[User Picture]From: e_moon60
2012-02-17 07:12 am (UTC)
Should mention: these will have cuffs ribbed all the way down to the narrowest part of my ankle--as they'll be worn outdoors on the land, the cushioning of the ribbing where my ankle's likely to be exposed is a good idea. I used to knock the skin off my ankle-bones regularly when not wearing heavy socks. Now I wear heavy socks.

I finally checked out all the URLs provided by commenters to a previous post, and one of them had exactly the kind of thing I needed--a sock someone had knitted in multiple colors, each color representing a part of the sock (and making it clear how the "heel flap" and "heel turning" fit together and "gusset" actually worked. Not what I thought from reading directions!! Since I can't follow directions I don't understand...now I can follow the directions.
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[User Picture]From: hugh_mannity
2012-02-17 02:54 pm (UTC)
Ha! I think that was a link I sent you.

I found that immeasurably helpful in learning how socks are constructed. I'm glad it helped you too. I'm somewhat of a visual learner, and if I can't visualise something from the instructions, I can't do it. Show me a picture and I can map the directions onto it and I'm good.

Making socks in tandem is an excellent plan. It avoids second sock syndrome (and in my case ensures that the mistakes in thepattern are symmetrical :D).

I really enjoy your knitting posts -- it's great to see how you're learning and how your projects are progressing.
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[User Picture]From: e_moon60
2012-02-17 03:17 pm (UTC)
Thank you, then! I'm not only visual, but very responsive to color: having each section or type in its own color really, really helped. Like you, I need to "see" in my head how the directions work before I can follow them. And I love the page referenced that shows the different shapes of heel. Now I should be able to look at the remains of the socks my mother made me--the heels were perfect for me--and know which kind they are. Both these pages are now bookmarked. I may print out the first and have it to look at while knitting.

I also think I need to do a test patch to be sure I understand those gusset decreases. Right now I've never done anything that required increases or decreases, and have dealt roughly with my accidental increases (on scarves, for instance) with a knit-2-together whenever I noticed the work getting wider. Crude, but effective. On the sock I'd rather do it right.

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[User Picture]From: fair_witness
2012-02-17 08:41 pm (UTC)
If I haven't already recommended it to you, I recommend this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Sensational-Knitted-Socks-Charlene-Schurch/dp/1564775704/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_2

It's got some illustrations that also take the color-coded approach to sock parts, plus it's got loads of useful tables that make it much easier for you to figure out what size socks you need to knit, including conversion tables for shoe size/sock size correlations. This last comes in handy for me because of the relatives/friends who'll say, "Oh, I wear a size 9, so whatever sock size that is...." because it's easier than them finding a ruler and actually measuring their feet.
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[User Picture]From: moonndragn
2012-02-17 04:57 pm (UTC)
I know there are strong religious arguments about dpns versus magic loop (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtBSmxGomPk), but I enjoy using both and I find that two-socks-at-a-time is a place where magic loop really shines. Using one or two circular needles instead of two sets of dpns makes it easier for me to remember to switch between socks. It's also useful that any mistakes are usually made in the same way on both socks, which at least produces a matching (if not perfect) pair.

It does mean that you're doing one round at a time on each sock instead of one section at a time, so it might not meet the purpose of the project you're currently working on.
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[User Picture]From: e_moon60
2012-02-17 05:11 pm (UTC)
I've looked at videos of magic loop and I'm afraid I'm still not getting it--I will have to see it in person and watch for longer than a YouTube video to catch on. Meanwhile I'm pretty happy with the DPNs, esp. since I switched to 5 of them.
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