They look good. You inspired me this summer to make several pairs of shorty socks from the left-overs of full-sized winter socks - I'm not as clever (or perhaps brave) as you are with the stripes and all, but I did do the heels and toes in a different yarn.
And that said ... What is the pattern you're using for the heel reinforcement?
I think it's called "eye of partridge". It's a slip-stich pattern offset by one each right-side row.
All wrong-side rows are purled, until the sock is rejoined (and you're in the round), in which case the formerly wrong side rows are knitted.
So for the heel flap:
Row 1, slip one, knit one, repeat to end of row ending with knit stitch.
Row 2 (and all wrongside rows) slip one, purl to the end
Row 3, slip one, knit two, slip one, knit one to the end of the row (you'll end with two knit stitches. Some directions say to slip two at the beginning, but I prefer to adjust with knit stitches. Try both and see which you like.)
Row 4 (like all wrongside rows, slip first stitch and purl the rest)
Row 5, slip one, knit one, repeat to end of row.
All the pattern rows are K1,Slip1, but offset by one on alternate rows to give the diagonal "diamond" effect. It's a big tricky to keep going through the heel turn and depends on whether you start the heel turn with a right-side K1S1 row or the offset row. Looks good either way, just not as perfect. I now usually continue the padding under my heel, stopping there the heel callous stops or a little before--maybe 4 rows beyond the end of the heel turn for my heels. Longer isn't necessary but that padding makes a different to comfort. It does use more yarn (all the slip-stitch reinforcement patterns use more yarn than plain stockinette.)
I hope you're enjoying the short socks. I also like that I can make them in about half the time of the regular ones. Use up leftovers, more socks in fewer weeks...a lot to like.
Stripes took me awhile to figure out (no one should ever look at the insides of the first few pairs, which have kludgy fixups of the former gaps...but they're still comfortable. Where there were gaps, I went in with a yarn needle and just sort of wove through the gap until it looked dense enough to walk on.) What seems to work for me is knitting one or two (usually just one) stitch with both yarns whenever I change color, and doing it again within three rows to carry the other color along. This minimizes ends you have to weave in, and prevents holes. The first time I wear the socks I can feel that larger stitch, but I'm not a lightweight and it flattens out quickly and I don't notice it again. The very short runs of the other color don't seem to wear much at all (longer runs do.) Striping is another "not a bug but a feature" feature...they look intentional while using up yarn that isn't long enough for a substantial fraction of a sock. With more than two colors to a sock, it's hard to remember to do that double-yarn stitch often enough (and three yarns in a stitch distorts it a lot more than you might think.)
Thank you for asking that!
It's basically similar to the Heel Stitch that's slip one, knit one all the way across, all the right-side rows--and which results in what looks like giant stockinette--except for that dance-step sideways every other right-side row. And if you mess up and do a a row of Heel Stitch, that's quite decorative too...it's a band of Heel Stitch with the pretty diamond-waffle pattern above and below. (Hey, I'm _good_ at labeling errors a design element...)
They will be if I don't keep making stupid mistakes. I was working on the gusset decreases one of the blue/green ones, counting carefully every single round, I swear, and suddenly the "downhill" side, as I think of it, disappeared two stitches and no longer matched when it should. I picked back and picked back and it's still...two stitches low. When I thought it was one stitch high. Either my brain is going or pixies are playing with the knitting every time I put it down. Or both. I gave it up for the night. Light will be better in the morning.
The Mountain Colors knits up beautifully, but I do not want to make mistakes on that pair--they'll be the most expensive socks I own, for sure.
2014-09-12 07:05 am (UTC)
As usual, the green doesn't look right, but the other colors do...
If the colors really are driving you nuts, the right answer is to do color calibration. In this case, you have at least two transfer functions -- your camera recording the scene, and then your monitor rendering the colors out of the file. (Possibly a third, since JPEG can do some weird things.)
Cheapest way is probably to get some sort of color card (anywhere from 10$ to as much as you want to spend, although 70$ is a bit of an industry standard), and then adjust at least your monitor so that what you see on the screen matches what you shoot and what you see with your own eyes.
The fancier way is to get a calibration widget that can read the output from your screen and make sure it matches what "everyone else" is doing. Then you'll have to adjust what your camera takes ("white balance" is the start).
Anyway. Just a long way of saying that ~12$ and a few minutes might solve your "this doesn't look like the real world") problems locally; something like ~150$ should fix the "what my editor sent me over email doesn't match what showed up on the ARCs a few months later" problem.
[Note that not all computer monitors can actually reproduce all the colors that you see in the world. Folks that do color repro work professionally happily spend 3k$+ on computer monitors, and I have no idea how much money they spend on calibration hardware etc.]
I'm not particularly an expert on the topic, but if you have further interest, I'd be happy to try to put together more coherent suggestions. (If nothing else, I suspect your editor could put you in contact with their prepress folks; they ought to know how to approximate this goal at various price points.)
2014-09-13 03:15 am (UTC)
Re: color calibration
Thanks. I suspect (don't know) that it's a white-balance problem, but this is the only green yarn it affects, and I'm just not that eager to try fiddling with that right now. However, I appreciate the information and if I can gather the energy and time to work this problem, I'll be following up, probably with the aid of the camera shop I use.
Hah! "...the race for the toes." Visions of folks secured in stocks holding their feet out front, gravy or some-such poured over their toes, and a pack of puppies or cats released to race over and lick off the gravy.
My bare toes are curling under ...
And I'm laughing. Thanks for that image.
I have rather long feet. So one way to keep believing I'm making progress is to treat the two socks in a pair like a match race. I work on the shorter one, trying to catch up with the longer one...then switch and work on the now-shorter one. Otherwise, in the middle of the foot, where it seems to take forever to get to the toe decreases...I can lose interest. And some pairs of socks seem determined to have problems. This blue pair...has been slow, required a lot of undoing and redoing, and...grrr.
It's the lighting. They're aluminum, silvery colored.
By any chance are you on Ravelry, for knitters and crocheters?
I have, or had, a Ravelry account, but I just don't have time to go there but once in a blue moon. Too much of my time is online already. If I could arrange to have 48 hour days, and the energy to fill most the hours, then I could do a lot more things I want to do...